Celery might not get much attention, but it’s the backbone of some of my favorite dishes. Chopped fine with onion and carrot, it makes the soffritto that gives Italian sauces and soups their deep, savory flavor. You’ll find it in a slow-simmered classic Bolognese Sauce, The Best Short Rib Ragu, a tomato-free Ragu Bianco and a Neapolitan Pasta alla Genovese. It’s the start of cozy soups like Ribollita and Creamy Red Lentil Soup. And when it’s the star, it’s crisp and refreshing in a Celery Apple Fennel Salad. Tip: don’t toss the pale inner leaves. They taste like a fresh, peppery herb and are great chopped into salads. If your celery has gone limp, trim the ends and stand the stalks in ice water for 30 minutes to crisp them back up.